Darwin Over to Broome - April 2012

Back to the grindstone so to speak; this takes us from us leaving Darwin, heading back down the highway 300km and then turning right to head over to Broome. Because we only do 2 – 3 hours a day driving it did seem to take a while but this is as much as we wanted to do on a daily basis, you could bypass a lot of places if you want to do the long hours driving

 

This is quite a long haul with basically overnight or a few night stops; it was great to finally reach the west coast but there was quite a few things to see and do along the way. We did stay one night just outside Katherine after leaving Darwin before then moving west with our first stop being Kununurra.

 

KUNUNURRA

 

Remember just before Kununurra is the W. A border crossing; see HERE for the list of no go items (including honey). You must either consume or get rid of them before the border; be aware this is manned 24/7 and fines apply for not declaring, and yes they do go through you van cupboards.

 

We pulled into Kunanurra and elected to stay at Kimberleyland Holiday Park which sits on the edge of Lily Creek Lagoon and about 1km from the town. most of the sites are grass but the grounds are well kept, don't expect too much grass as it is a dry region. The park has a nice pool, boat ramp, car wash bay, camp kitchen and some of the best kept amenities we have seen. We paid $30 for the first night then $33 for the 2nd night (start of the higher seasonal rate); internet and mobile phone was good and analogue channels were available.

 

I would suggest you stock up with groceries and meat etc in either Darwin or Katherine as from this point on things can get quite expensive. Kununurra does have an IGA so some specials are on offer. There are a few other shops, take-aways etc and the usual pubs but be aware Kununurra does have a significant population of indigenous; alcohol is on restricted sale and wine is only available after 5.00pm (2 bottles max).

 

 

Our site at Kimberleyland Holiday Park right next to the pool; great spot and the sites were very roomy.

 

 

Lily Creek Lagoon which is at the back of the park, great outlook and good place to sit and read.

 

 

Some of the boab trees which line the main street of Kununurra; these trees are quite predominant across the top and grow to extraordinary sizes,

 

HALLS CREEK

We did not overnight here but stopped for a look around; the town does have a caravan park but it does not look that inviting, we were told it is okay by some but others said best not to stay (your choice if you are passing through). They do not have a web site so I am unable to include a link.

 

Above is the best picture of Halls Creek park I could get; you probably cannot see the barbwire fence which surrounds the park, it's there to keep you know who out.

 

MARY POOL

 

Mary Pool is a free camp that is 106km further on from Halls Creek; providing it is not the wet season this is always open and is a good alternative. It has toilets and plenty of shaded area for vans, it has a very pleasant vista and it's free. During the wet season the causeway is underwater so the camp is not accessible but once the rains stop the river drops and access is fine.

 

 

Us coming out of Mary Pool across the causeway.

 

 

Probably can't see but centre behind the trees is us and a few other vans; as you can see it is very picturesque but it was bloody hot. Someone said you could swim safely but no one was game to check out the theory.

 

FITZROY CROSSING

 

Another small town but only has a couple of shops and servo so not much here at all but it does have a caravan park which is quite good. If you stay here make  sure you stay at the Fitzroy River Lodge; there is another park in town but not recommended. Everything here is very good and the park is part of some beautiful cabin style accommodation, it has a restaurant and bar (expensive) so it is sort of an oasis out this way. We paid $38 for the night but this is not unusual out this part of the world. Amenities were old but kept very clean so no complaints from us, there is a pool but it is a fair way from the caravan area, closer to the cabins.

 

 

Above are the grounds at the caravan park; we had just pulled out and forgot to take our site photo.

 

 

Hope you can read some of the sign above; it is just outside the door of the restaurant/bar and reception and they are fair dinkum about being barred.

 

BROOME

 

After a week or so (seemed like a month) we arrived in Broome. It was good to get back on the coast and get a cooling breeze; I am not a big fan of sand but getting from central to coastal even brought a smile to my dial. Mobile and analogue TV is okay for most channels, we used the dish.

 

We pre booked in to Roebuck Bay Caravan Park as we were told it is getting busy up the north end of W. A; glad we did as for large vans it was getting a little full. This is a council owned park and is in a prime location as it sits as the name suggests on Roebuck Bay; this is one of the viewing points for the “stairway to the moon” spectacular. The price here was $35 per night which is very good given the location; there is no pool or camp kitchen but several BBQ's are about the grounds. The worst part about this park is the amenities which are some of the worse we have seen; I must admit I have seen better amenities in $5 showgrounds. There are 4 blocks and all are equally as bad, the council should be ashamed in not getting these up to standard.

 

Other than the amenities there was at the time a lot of thievery going on to the point we had at one stage a bloke open our van door whilst we were inside watching T.V, seems a couple of out of town crews were operating in the area. It is a good location but having to close everything up as tight as a drum at all times soured the experience.

 

 

Looking from our site out to Roebuck Bay; it was great waking to this each morning.

 

 

Another shot of our site; we had plenty of room and good non overhanging shade.

 

 

Above is the start of the “stairway to the moon”. This natural phenomenon is caused by the rising of a full moon reflecting on the exposed mudflats at extremely low tide - creating a beautiful optical illusion of a staircase reaching up to the moon.

 

 

Staircase to the Moon occurs from March to October along the coast of Australia’s North West. The best viewing spots are at Roebuck Bay in Broome, Cooke Point in Port Headland, the Lookout at Cossack, Hearson's Cove near Karratha and Sunrise Beach in Onslow.

 

 

The famous Cable Beach.

 

 

The main part of town; there is Woolies, Coles and Target here so it is a welcome relief from some of the small town high prices we had been through.

 

 

Best known for the current and old pearling industry there is a bronze statue in the main street depicting the way it was.

 

 

Another bronze statue in the main street; I think from memory the plaque said “centrelink is that way”

 

 

The above is Sun Pictures in Broome; it is still operating and is the worlds oldest picture gardens and was established in 1916.

 

 

Above is the Gantheaume Point lighthouse; check out the house as it is the residence for the lighthouse keeper; not a bad job if you can get it.

 

 

A blowhole at Gantheaume Point; the rock formations are incredible, this are is where you can see the dinosaurs prints at low tide, not this particular spot though. 

 

 

One of the many spectacular sunrises at Roebuck Bay.

 

There is plenty to do in Broome and to do some of the things you will need a wallet that is bulging at the seams. We stayed here for 2 weeks and the location and things to do certainly offset some of the bad points outlined earlier.

Our stops after this were Eighty Mile Beach, Dampier, Exmouth,, Coral Bay, Carnarvon, Denham (Monkey Mia), Steep Point (the most westerly point in W. A), Hamlin Pool, and our current location Kalabarri.

Looks like I am only about 2 posts from getting to a point where I feel I am pretty much up to date.

Love and warm regards to all our family and friends and until the next one hope you all stay well and travel safely.

David & Linda –  The DavLin Rig

Katherine & Darwin

Okay –  we left the Daly Waters Pub on the morning of the 15^th  March (my birthday) and headed to Katherine. it rained all the way up there and just as we arrived at the van park it decided to give us a dose of monsoonal rain which lasted for about an hour; we waited until it had stopped before picking a site, the choice was easy as there was only a few not underwater (it does drain very quickly though).

 

KATHERINE

 

Not too impressed with Katherine as it seems to be a bit bigger version of Tennant Creek and sufferers with the local indigenous lying around town and loitering outside the local businesses. Don't know how some of the traders survive as it puts you off even wanting to try and get in the shops.

 

The town does have a small shopping centre with a Woolies and Target Country, there are a few pubs in town but I would not recommend them; hard to even get in the door when they are all hanging around. There are several cafes and the like but we spent very little time in the town.

 

We stayed at the Shady Lane Tourist Park which is about 6km out of town on the road to Katherine Gorge; glad we did as the park is very quiet and being out of town not subject to any troublesome issues (theft, noise and wondering nomads). Some of the other van parks we looked at whilst we were in Katherine were, in our opinion pretty ordinary to say the least.

 

Price for this park is $33 –  $37 depending on the season; the link above will give you the dates and rates and also a good look at the park. We arrived in the low season and there was only 8 or 10 vans; the park has a pool, good camp kitchen, free BBQ's and good laundry facilities. A new amenities block was nearing completion and the other main block was closed awaiting the rush; the one that was open we found a little wanting and not that good. Once the other blocks were open it would be very okay but whilst we were there the open (2 loo & shower unisex en suites) struggled with the 10 vans.

 

TV for us was via the dish as we could only get a snowy ABC by normal means; phone and internet was okay. We had marked in our tourist book of the area several things to do but most were still not operating and would not be until late April/early May (the season); if you are travelling to Katherine/Darwin it would pay you to check what's operating especially if you have something specific in mind.

 

 

Above our site at Katherine; be site selective as some are slab and some not also shade by palms is okay but there are sites with some what could be quite messy trees.

 

 

On the road to Katherine Gorge.

 

 

Another small sign as you get to the Gorge; I think it said “you must be this tall to enter here”.

 

 

I did not get a photo of the main street in town but here is one just outside the tourist information centre; it's the next best spot to sit after centrelink, the post office steps or the pub doorstep.

 

DARWIN

 

Arrived in Darwin after spending about a week in Katherine; lots to do here as you would expect but again check what is running and when as the season dictates if it is operating, all should be from the beginning of May.

 

We stayed at Hidden Valley Tourist Park  which was very nice and would highly recommend it; a little pricey but well worth the money. This park does not offer much in the way of a discount but after deliberation they did offer us a 7 night stay for the 6 night price, mainly because it was fairly quiet. We paid $38 per night ($228 p/wk) but if you think this is high you wait until I get onto the northern W. A. prices.

 

The grounds are well maintained and it has a very nice pool; the amenities are first class and apart from the daily clean are inspected and tidied throughout the day. The park is about 8km from Darwin CBD; you do hear the odd plane and also on occasions you may get a 30 minute training run from the air force (great to watch). The park sits between Tiger Brennan Drive and the Stuart Hwy so it is quiet but has easy access to all directions and is about 5km from major shopping. Normal TV, phone and internet were no problem as you would expect.

 

 

Our site at Hidden Valley; sites were mainly grass but we had one with an “Eco Slab” which is basically a raised timber frame with open weave matting, quite good actually.

 

 

Above are the ruins of the old town hall; conservation techniques are being used to slow decay of this post Cyclone Tracy building which was erected in 1883.

 

 

Linda inside one of the cells at Fannie Bay Gaol which is another 1883 building and now a tourist attraction; new facilities were built due to overcrowding and it was closed in 1979.

 

 

Not much privacy in the loo's but ''You can leave your hat on da da da da da da”.

 

 

These gallows inside the old infirmary were used for only 2 executions. 20 year old Jerry Koci and 19 year old John Novotny were hanged in 1952 for the brutal murder of a local taxi driver, George Grantham. Gives you goosebumps standing near it and looking down where the person dropped hanging by the neck.

 

 

Linda with an orphaned Joey which had been taken in by a local family; it had been rescued from the dead mothers pouch on one of the highways.

We went on a crocodile tour down the Adelaide River and this was one of the highlights for us; the cruise was fantastic and the cost very reasonable ($30 each). The name of the tour was Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise and would highly recommend this one to you; there are about 5 operators doing this type of tour but these guys were great. We were on the boat for around 1.5hrs and enjoyed the whole experience. 

 

 

One of the crocs out the water for some food.

 

 

Great photo of a sea eagle coming in for a free feed; the bone on the end of the line was about 4” long which will give you an idea of size. 

 

 

One of the rather amusing signs at the departure point.

 

Well it is now back down to Katherine where we turn right and head for W. A stopping at a few one and two night places before getting in to Broome. Should have another post ready in a few weeks and in case your wondering we are in Denham (Monkey Mia).

 

Love and warm regards to you all and hope to see you soon.

 

David & Linda –  The DavLin Rig

 

Camooweal - Tennant Creek - The Daly Waters Pub

Back to the blog to bring you ever closer (I hope) but it sometimes seems like a dog chasing its tail; after this post however, you will not be too far away from us.

As mentioned in the last episode I will not go over old ground but just say that between Scarborough and Mount Isa we stopped off at several places to catch up with family and friends we have met on the road.

 

CAMOOWEAL (no park website)

 

Our first stop after Isa was Camooweal which is only 188km heading west; we decided to stay here as our next stop was to be Tennant Creek. The total distance from Isa to Tennant is 660km so we wanted to break this down a little so it was Camooweal or the Barkly Homestead.

 

Not much in Camooweal as you can imagine; 2 service stations that act as take away and general stores (so does the post office) and a pub. The caravan park is situated behind the pub and has secure fencing around the perimeter for obvious reasons, it also has cabin accommodation. The amenities were clean and usable and they do have a pool along with a few cabins; sites had power and water, sullage water was just out onto the ground, rate was $25p/n and diesel in town was 185.9. The BP servo also has caravan sites.

 

According to the latest stats the population here is 310 so staying behind the pub even on a Saturday night would be quiet. There is a drover’s camp attraction in town but I am not sure what time of the year it runs. If you do not want to stop here there is a dump point and access to drinking water as you come into town on the eastern side so you can dump and fill up with water.

 

 

Above is our site behind the pub; not much to look at but comfortable for an overnight stay, we needed A/C in these temperatures (37c).

 

 

As Camooweal is on the QLD / NT border there is a sign above the pub as you travel east to west bidding farewell.

 

 

There is also a welcome sign at the BP as you enter Queensland.

 

 

Above is the main sign you will see at the Barkly Homestead; this is situated about half way between Camooweal and Tennant Creek. There is a caravan park here as well if you want to stay and it also has a pool.

 

 

The main building at the Barkly; diesel here was 199.7, unleaded was 2 cents cheaper.

 

TENNANT CREEK

Tennant Creek is a bit of an eye opener if you have not been in a town where the indigenous are quite predominant; they just seem to wonder back and forth with seemingly no place to go other than the shops, pub or Centrelink. Pubs don’t open till noon here and you cannot buy take away grog until 2.00pm and then only in limited quantities, check the regulations for the NT so you know what is and is not allowed.

There are 2 caravan parks in Tennant Creek and you can take your pick as they both seem as bad as each other. We stayed 2 nights at the Tennant Creek Caravan Park; it did have a pool and the drive through site we had was well shaded on each side so no shit on the van but well protected on the east and west sides. Amenities were only just okay and cleaning only seemed to be a good hose out; I did not notice to much cleaning equipment being taken in to them at cleaning time.

 

The rate was $32 per night which is about par for out in these remoter areas. There is a few pubs in town and the mix of small shops and there is an IGA which was reasonably priced; cheapest fuel was at the first servo as you enter town from the north, it was 8c cheaper than the other 2 and also offered an extra 4c a litre discount if you had a seniors card.

 

 

Our site at Tennant Creek, shade each side but no overhanging trees.

 

 

The old Tennant Creek telegraph station which is about 12km north of TC. If you leave a $20 deposit at the tourist info centre you can get the key to go inside and look around (we only found this out later).

 

 

“Hey Dave; come and have a look at what these 2 dirty buggers are up to”. “Linda!!!, what have I told you about peeping through keyholes”.

 

 

Just the right size house for hobbits (or Linda).

 

 

Main street of Tennant Creek.

 

THREEWAYS ROADHOUSE

Thought I would mention the Threeways Roadhouse as it does have a van park; can’t comment as we did not stay here. This is where you have to make a decision here fuel wise; travelling the Barkly Highway from Isa (east/west) you eventually get to the “T” junction of the Stuart Highway (north/south; from here turning left takes you to Tennant Creek (25km) or turning right is to Darwin. The Threeways Roadhouse sits near this intersection and fuel here is about 25c a litre dearer than Tennant Creek; if you are visiting TC before heading north get your fuel there.

 

 

The Threeways Roadhouse is just north of the Barkly/Stuart Highway intersection.

 

DALY WATERS PUB

If you are heading north whatever you do don’t miss this place; put the Daly Waters Pub on your must visit list as it is well worth it, it has a caravan park of sorts and does have powered or unpowered sites, The pub also has a pool so its very welcome in the hotter months. The amenities are basic but clean and quite useable; a powered site is $24p/n powered or $14p/n unpowered. The pub sits left about 8km off the main highway heading north; you will go past the Daly Waters Highway Inn  Roadhouse and about 6km north of that is the turn off for the pub.

The food here is very good; if you have a look at the web site I think it has a menu for the meals they serve; there is so much visually to see both inside and outside the pub. It certainly is one of a kind so don’t miss it.

 

 

Our site; not the best as there had been light rain for a few hours before we arrived. It was still raining in the morning when we left but would do it all again as we had a great night.

 

 

One of the signs outside the pub.

 

 

This sits opposite the pub; if you can’t read the sign it says “Everything here not made in China”.

 

 

Outside the front of the pub; it looks quite small from the outside but it is quite big inside and has one of the biggest outdoor undercover eating areas.

 

 

Above the bar are the souvenirs, “Things to Take Home”.

 

 

If you have lost a bra it may be hanging here; there is just about every item of clothing you can imagine hanging around the walls and ceiling.

 

 

Plenty of knickers and thongs (not the foot variety) adorns the rafters.

 

 

For a gold coin donation to the Royal Flying Doctor you can write your message on the wall or staple a card; here is ours so if you get to the Daly Waters Pub let us know if you find it, a clue, it is on the inside front wall (somewhere).

 

Well that’s it until the next one; from here we headed to Katherine and Darwin before making our way west to Broome with a few overnighters on the way.

Hope you enjoy the read and will start the next post soon. Travel safely and hope to see you somewhere soon; love and warm regards to you all.

David & Linda – The DavLin Rig